Models: 710, 712 front+rear axle, Years: ALL

Tools needed:
Jack, lug wrench, 10m m allen wrench, large screwdriver or brake adjusting spoon.  Recommended:  Torque wrench, floor jack and jack stands.

Step 1: Raise vehicle. To make things easier, slightly loosen the lug nuts before raising vehicle.  If using the Pinzi bottle jack, raise one wheel at a time. It's recommended that for safety you use a floor jack to lift one end of the truck and support it with jack stands. Never trust your life to a jack without a second means of support.

Step 2: Remove wheel using lug wrench or impact gun. Install 2 lug nuts back on the hub to hold the brake drum straight while adjusting. Using the allen wrench, remove the adjusting plug from the brake drum (it uses the same copper rings as all of the fluid plugs!).  If it's really tight, whack the plug with a hammer. This will loosen the plug. This works with the drain plugs, too.

Step 3: Rotate the brake drum while looking into the adjusting hole. You can inspect the brake shoes this way.  There should be at least 1/8 inch of lining remaining. If not, think about replacing the shoes. Now locate one of the star adjusters. There are 2 of them. They are notched wheels located between the brake shoes. Turn the wheel, one "click" at a time in the direction indicated in the drawing.  Continue until the adjuster is tight and won't turn any more. Then back off 5 clicks or until drum turns freely, whichever is greater. Actually, it's OK if the drum drags very slightly. Now repeat for the other adjuster.

Step 4: Reinstall the plug and the wheel.  Torque the lug nuts by hand or preferably with a torque wrench. I torque my wheels to 110 lb-ft.

Step 5: Repeat, repeat, repeat.

Contributed by: Chris van Wolbeck

add-on by Dennis Williams, LinDen Engineering:

My best suggestion is do the following, and remember:- all threads on adjusters are right hand thread.

1 Remove each drum in turn and clean out the dust etc. Scrape any mud residue from rivet holes & sipe lines.
2 Make a simple sketch of the cylinder layout and mark which way you are going to turn the star bronze adjuster wheel (s), bearing in mind that the adjuster section always has right hand threads. If necessary try adjusting them a bit with no drum on just to see how they turn.
3 Refit the drum. Secure it with three wheel nuts, this squares & seats the drum & allows accurate adjustment.
4 With the drum in place turn it to where you can access the adjuster (s) Use a flashlight to see more clearly in there.
5 Now turn them in the direction you marked on your sketch until the shoe is firmly locked in place against the drum.
6 Now carefully back it off until the drum turns smoothly, stop at that point
7 Now turn the drum 180 dg and do the same for the other adjuster referring to your sketch.
8 Repeat for the other side.

That should take care of the fronts.......

The rears are simpler and have only one adjuster, again right hand threads.

Repeat the procedures explained adjusting only one adjuster.

You will know if you got it right the brake pedal will have limited free play.

Applying antiseize Adjuster plug out and lug nuts securing drum Cleaning studs Board on jackstand useful as shelf for parts and tools  High lift on rear bumper Front tire chocked Tools used Jack stand secured add on by LeDoyle Pingel: after you adjusted the brakes pump the brake pedal several times hard and do the same while driving slow. This sets the brakes and makes sure that you don’t have an unpleasant surprise when you have to make an emergency stop............