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Models: ALL, Years: ALL Does your fuel filter fill with red particles or even worse your carburator jets are blocked with them? Look into your tank through the filler neck and it will most likely look like this or worse:
Bingo! You just have detected the most time consuming repair on a Pinz unless you can afford to spend the money for a new tank. The bubbles you can see in the picture are the red lining which is supposed to protect the inside of the tank from rust. It seems that this lining has problems with some of the additives in modern gasohol. Well, we assume that you have more time then money and want to fix it yourself. First you have to remove the tank. Drain as much gas as you can through the drainage hole at the bottom of your tank. Support the tank with a hydraulic floor jack or other means and open all screws holding the tank (you may want to remove the stone guard towards the front tire first). Let the tank slowly drop a bit and open all fuel hose and filler neck clamps. Remove the tank completely. Now to the time consuming part of the job. You have to find a paint stripper which attacks the red lining in the tank, preferably one which can be washed out with water as the ones you have to remove with paint thinner are usually quite thick and difficult to remove again. The best results for a new liner have been reported with a product called U.S. Standard Tank Sealer from www.por15.com but other liners may work too First wash the tank thoroughly with Marine Clean (an intense cleaner), then pour Metal Ready into the tank (etches the metal and removes rust), plug the holes again and let it sit for 1/2h on each side again. Then empty the tank again (the Metal Ready is reusable!) remove all plugs and wash it out. Dry the tank as best as you can. If you blow compressed air through the tank it will dry faster! Let the tank sit and dry for at least 24h in a warm and dry place. Once dry plug all holes again except the filler hole and pour the right amount of tank sealer into the tank and plug the filler hole. Turn the tank in all directions several times then let it rest on one side for ~10mins. Turn the tank in all directions again and let it sit on another side for another 10mins. Repeat this until it has sat twice on all sides. If you open the filler plug for the rest times on all sides but the top one the lining will already start to cure a bit and generate a thicker layer. Once you are satisfied with your coating drain the excess por15 off the tank and remove all plugs. Let the tank sealer cure for at least 24h before you install the tank again. If you blow air through the tank it cures a bit faster but don’t use compressed air as it will “move” the liner. As the tank is already removed it may be a good time to trash all the old fuel hoses and clamps and replace them with new ones and stainless clamps! Place the tank on the floor jack and lift it until the hoses can be fitted and clamped in place. Then lift the tank up until the mounting holes match and secure it with its bolts (didn’t you want to replace them with stainless ones?). Don’t over tighten the bolts! Remark: if your filler neck also shows signs of age it’s the best time to coat it while the tank is off. The liner there is usually white and can be removed with MEK (wear a respirator!). Once removed spray it with Metal Ready, wash it and use the excess liner from the tank to brush it 2-3 times with the liner. Compiled from several emails and newsgroup postings |
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